Kohlrabi historically hails from Eastern Europe (doesn't it just look German, or say, Bulgarian?) and kohl means cabbage and rabi means turnip. And there's no two better identifiers to distinguish the flavour of kohlrabi then green cabbage and raw turnip. It tastes like cabbage but with the consistency of the white Japanese radish, daikon. It's slightly sweet like turnip but it has none of the nip of raw red radish. It's fresh, herbaceous and subtle. I peeled a bulb and cut into it and then I stood over the sink and closed my eyes and chewed the flesh trying to figure out its notes. It is reminiscent in flavour of cabbage - slightly spicy, slightly pungent - but it doesn't have the same chemical release that raw cabbage sometimes emits. You know how sometimes after you eat raw cabbage you walk around feeling like you're breathing fire? Kohlrabi has more of a slow burn; it's fresh tasting, with a subtle sweetness followed by a surprising lemony kick.
I had a difficult time finding recipes for kohlrabi at all, but even more so ones that I actually wanted to try or to tweak. I wanted to use it raw and in a salad but not just chopped into something more overwhelming or cut into moon slivers and braised with butter. I wanted to centre it and see if it could not only hold its own, but shine. After chewing on a few pieces, and contemplating its personality, I thought it would match well with raw carrot which is sweeter but also more fibrous.
So this salad dish is a tango of two - grated raw kohlrabi and grated raw carrots - matched with strong tasting herbs like cilantro and mint and basil and blended together in a smoky dressing made with sesame oil / smoked salish sea salt*/ rice vinegar / grated raw ginger / hot pepper flakes / and a squeeze of lemon.
It was so satisfying and complex that I actually went back into the kitchen, took down the hand grater, and re-did the whole process in order to have seconds. I ate 3 kohlrabi bulbs in a single lunch sitting. It's really that good.
* This sea salt is deeply smoky, infused with the aura of cedar wood smoke. Perfect for grilled fish but also simply divine sprinkled on raw vegetables that lean towards the watery or the hot where the smoky saltiness provides just the right balance. But it's a personal taste, and really, any coarse sea salt that you enjoy the flavour of would be just fine.
I am very free-flowing with my dressings, sometimes using an old mustard jar to shake the ingredients together, often just whisking them with a fork in a small glass and then pouring on top of my salad, but mostly adding them directly to the salad and then tossing it all together. I prefer fresh and flavourful and tend to stay away from dairy (or mayo) based dressing, or ones that are too gummy, and by gummy I mean any of the store bought ones that are practically congealed.
Here's a similar dressing I use to make Asian influenced coleslaws but in a more recipe based friendly format. Other dressing combinations that would work: lime and fresh mint; lime-cumin; a curried vinaigrette with a touch of maple syrup; a peanut dressing (made with roasted peanut oil)/soy/chives/serrano chile.
Sesame Vinaigrette with Chili Oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1 green onion, chopped, including the greens
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
3 1/2 teaspoons sesame oil + 1 teaspoon dark sesame oil (toasted sesame oil can be substituted for both or you can use just whatever sesame oil you have on hand)
1/2 teaspoon chili oil (or 1/2 teasoon dried chili flakes or 1/2 teaspoon minced jalapeno or serrano pepper)
